Can facial pigmentation age us?
Light bounces off the upper layers of the skin, and if it’s well hydrated and even in tone this gives a nice vibrant glow. However, if the skin is unevenly coloured, light bounces back in a scattered way making the skin look dull and older. Variation in skin tone can be caused by various factors including cumulative UV damage, natural ageing, post-inflammatory pigmentation (from skin trauma or inflammation), hormonal changes (melasma), skin vascularisation and genetics. However, the main culprit in causing hyperpigmentation is the sun. With UV exposure, cells called melanocytes are stimulated to make additional pigment called melanin, resulting in a tan. However, as we age and with accumulated repeated exposure to UV radiation, these melanocytes become damaged and permanently ‘switched on’ to overproduce melanin. This results in dark spots called solar lentigines, which are harmless flat brown spots that appear on the face and back of the hands. Reducing pigmentation is the single most dramatic non-invasive rejuvenating procedure. So what can actually be done?- Prevention is better than cure. Always apply a broad spectrum, high SPF sunscreen.
- Bleaching creams: these contain lightening agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, retinoids, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid and various plant-derived extracts such as mulberry bark extract. Hydroquinone has long been considered the gold standard in reversing hyperpigmentation, and works by disrupting the function of melanocytes to block the production of melanin.
- Chemical peels: these reduce pigmentation by removing some of the top layers of skin.
- Pigment lasers such as the Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. The same technology that shatters tattoo pigment can also be used to remove brown spots.
- Fractional lasers such as the Fraxel Re:store Dual 1927 nm laser. By creating microscopic columns of injury in the skin, both excess pigmentation and wrinkles can be targeted.
- ’Resurfacing’ lasers such as Erbium or CO2 laser: these work by removing multiple fine layers of skin. These are not suitable for all skin types.
- Intense Pulsed Light: not a laser but utilises a band of wavelengths of light to target various problems such as excess pigmentation.